When we consider Kashmir, we image snow-capped mountains, lush apple orchards, rosy-hued cherry blossoms, and aromatic saffron strands. For artwork lovers, the area is equally famed for its delicate and opulent Pashmina shawls—presents from a spot sometimes called the “Paradise on Earth”. However amid the din and noise of those widespread vacationer favourites, the lesser-known Kani embroidery, an beautiful textile custom, finally ends up shedding its much-deserved highlight.
As soon as wanted by European aristocrats within the nineteenth century, Kani shawls have been prized for his or her intricate craftsmanship and use of pure pashmina yarn. In the present day, they benefit from the safety of a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, granted in 2008, serving to protect their authenticity in opposition to rising imitations.
Dr Adity Saxena, dean of the College of Arts and Design at Woxsen College, stated that Kani embroidery originates from the village of Kanihama in Jammu and Kashmir. “The craft dates again to the Mughal period, with Emperor Akbar amongst its most notable patrons. He cherished Kani shawls deeply and even talked about them within the Ain-i-Akbari,” she stated.
Historic information counsel that Kani weaving was influenced by Persian methods, which have been dropped at the area by the 14th-century Sufi poet Shah-e-Hamdan. Tied carefully to the Aristocracy and royal heritage, the craft holds deep cultural and historic worth.
Pure pashmina wool from the Changthang area of Ladakh is often used for weaving. (Photograph credit score: Ishika Roy)
On the Artisane retailer in Srinagar, indianexpress.com learnt how weaving a pashmina scarf entails processes handed down via generations. Artisans often known as Wovur use a technique referred to as Wonun in Kashmiri, working the loom by hand and foot concurrently. It takes three to 4 days to weave a single piece, with round 1,200 threads stretched throughout 10 metres to kind the warp.
Not like common pashmina shawls, Kani items are woven not with a shuttle, however with small wood bobbins or needles—often known as kanis.
Rashmi Sridhara, assistant professor of trend and attire design at MIT World Peace College, stated that the phrase Kani means “small wood sticks” in Kashmiri. “It isn’t embroidery within the conventional sense however is woven utilizing positive pashmina yarn and Kanis that information the warp and weft. The patterns are primarily based on coded designs referred to as Talim, which information the weaver thread by thread, creating motifs like paisleys, florals, chinar leaves and so on,” she stated. Every scarf can take a number of months or a number of years to finish, relying on how complicated or intricate the design is.
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Dr Saxena concurred, including that the weaving is completed utilizing the Twill Tapestry Weave approach, the place interlocking wefts kind the motifs with out working throughout your entire cloth width. This system offers Kani shawls their signature detailed patterns and delicate texture. Pure pashmina wool from the Changthang area of Ladakh is often used for weaving.
Weaving is completed utilizing the Twill Tapestry Weave approach (Photograph credit score: Ishika Roy)
Sorts of Kani
Dr Saxena shared some insights on completely different sorts of Kani shawls, categorised on the idea of their designs and weaving methods.
Doranga-Dorukhi: Double-sided shawls with completely different designs on both sides.
Aksi: Contains a reflection sample, with one aspect displaying the design and the opposite left plain or minimally adorned.
Hashiadaar Scarf: Slender working borders on all 4 sides.
Palladaar: Options intricate patterns solely on the 2 ends with slim borders.
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Butidaar: Characterised by small or giant butis (particular person motifs) positioned repetitively.
Jamawar: An all-over, densely stuffed design, initially used as cloth for clothes.
Chand-daar: Contains a central medallion with 4 quarter medallions on the corners.
To make sure longevity, Sridhara instructed storing Kani shawls in muslin material, away from direct daylight and moisture. Common airing and avoiding mothballs will assist protect the material’s delicate texture.
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What’s in retailer for Kani’s future?
Regardless of a wonderful begin and opulent patronage, this Kashmiri artwork trade faces important challenges marked by a pointy decline in expert artisans, excessive manufacturing prices, and competitors from machine-made imitations which have made the craft much less sustainable. Artisane workers revealed that youthful generations of artisans are selecting different professions, placing an finish to their household legacies.
To maintain the custom alive, designers are adapting Kani to trendy tastes—mixing it into shrugs, jackets, and stoles to enchantment to youthful patrons. “Smooth palettes, minimal motifs, and fusion put on are drawing consideration again to this beautiful artwork,” stated Sridhara.
Whereas modernisation introduces new audiences, the essence of Kani stays rooted in its sluggish, deliberate craftsmanship—a thread connecting Kashmir’s inventive previous to its future.