Seventeen-year-old Nitanshi Goel’s Cannes crimson carpet debut not solely turned heads, however her customized ensemble paid homage to her conventional roots. Her black robe by JADE by Monica and Karishma fused heritage with couture, that includes signature Kasab embroidery and delicate gold macrame detailing. “It introduced collectively heritage and whimsy in good concord,” stated designer Monica Shah.
Goel wasn’t the one one bringing Kasab embroidery to world highlight. Content material creator Masoom Minawala’s Cannes 2025 look, a bespoke Arpita Mehta creation, showcased mirror work, gold Kasab, and positive cutdana in tender beige and gold tones — an ode to timeless, intricate, and globally-relevant Indian artistry.
With Kasab embroidery having fun with a second within the limelight, we hint its origins, evolution, and the way fashionable Indian vogue helps this age-old craft survive and thrive.
Origin and legacy
“Kasab embroidery, a distinguished type of metallic threadwork, has been part of India’s wealthy textile heritage,” stated Mansee Khera, assistant professor at Alliance Faculty of Design, Bengaluru, talking to indianexpress.com. She defined that it originated in areas like Gujarat and Rajasthan, the place gold or silver threads – known as Kasab – had been woven into luxurious materials like silk, velvet, and brocade.
“Historically related to royalty and ceremonial put on, the embroidery is characterised by strategies similar to couching, the place threads are laid on the material floor and stitched down with positive thread. The ensuing patterns, typically floral or geometric, mirror each cultural influences and creative expression,” stated Khera.
Apurva Shah, artistic director and founding father of Label Apurva, stated, “Its roots hint again to the Mughal period, the place it was extensively utilized in zari work on royal clothes, temple textiles, and ceremonial apparel. Over time, Kasab discovered its means into regional embroidery types like zardozi, gota patti, and aari work.”
Shah defined that historically, Kasab was reserved for grandeur. “It wasn’t simply ornamental, it was symbolic. The gleam of Kasab on cloth typically signified standing, celebration, and sanctity. Brides wore it as blessings woven into their trousseau, dancers draped it to catch the sunshine with each twirl, and royals commissioned it to precise energy and splendor,” she stated.
Story continues beneath this advert
How is Kasab woven?
Describing the method as “poetry in movement,” Shah stated that Kasab threads are created by flattening metals like gold or silver (now typically substituted with metallic polyester) and wrapping them round a silk or cotton core.
“These threads are then embroidered onto materials like silk, organza, velvet, or georgette utilizing strategies similar to zardozi, dabka, aari, or gota patti, relying on the area and design. The method is completely executed by hand, and each motif can take hours, generally days, of targeted craftsmanship,” she stated, including that artisans usually inherit this ability from generations earlier than them, and every bit carries their fingerprint.
Nitanshi Goel stuns in a black ensemble with Kasab work (Supply: Instagram/@nitanshigoelofficial)
Contained in the world of Kasab
Kasab embroidery is way from uniform. In keeping with Shah, it is available in varied varieties, every with its personal distinct character:
Gold Kasab (Sunehri Kasab) – Conventional and regal, utilized in bridal and festive put on.
Story continues beneath this advert
Silver Kasab (Chandi Kasab) – Cooler in tone, typically paired with pastels and whites.
Vintage Kasab – A extra muted gold or bronze tone, good for vintage-inspired items.
Colored Kasab – Fashionable variants utilizing dyed metallic threads so as to add playful accents.
Flat vs. Twisted Kasab – Flat threads for a sleeker look, twisted for texture and dimension.
Story continues beneath this advert
Mixing vintage and matte Kasab in embroideries helps give it a recent but timeless contact.
The place modernity meets custom
“The reality is, the artwork of Kasab is delicate, not simply in execution however in existence,” stated Shah.
In keeping with her, the craft faces quite a few challenges: a drop in mass market demand as a result of cheaper machine embroidery, a scarcity of latest artisans coming into the sphere as a result of low financial returns, rising materials prices, and dwindling patronage. “The displacement of native artisan clusters post-pandemic has additional compounded the difficulty,” she stated.
Nonetheless, in an try to remain afloat in opposition to the rising tide, up to date vogue designers are reinterpreting Kasab embroidery, and integrating it into fashionable silhouettes and ensembles. In keeping with Khera, this fusion of conventional craftsmanship with present design sensibilities not solely preserves the artwork type but additionally introduces it to new audiences, making certain its relevance in at this time’s vogue panorama.