The Kumbakonam vetrilai or betel leaf or paan leaf was not too long ago granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag by the Authorities of India, recognising its regional uniqueness and cultural significance. A staple in South Asian households, the betel leaf is central to making ready paan, a well-liked South Asian post-meal chew. The GI tag, introduced in April 2025, and revealed within the Authorities Gazette in November 2024, took Tamil Nadu’s whole GI merchandise to 62. But, many cultivators, marginal farmers and sellers stay unaware of this recognition and the advantages that include it.
Kumbakonam, six hours from Chennai, is dwelling to vethalai or vetrilai, predominantly grown in Thanjavur’s fertile Cauvery river basin, giving it a singular style and aroma. The darkish to mild inexperienced, rectangular heart-shaped leaves with a pungent style are cultivated, washed after which bundled in locations like Thiruvaiyaru, Papanasam, Thiruvidaimarudur, Kumbakonam, and Rajagiri.
Betel leaves support digestion and are wealthy in antioxidants, stated Kanikka Malhotra, a marketing consultant dietician and diabetes educator. “They’re excessive in chavicol, an anti-inflammatory compound that fights oxidative stress, widespread in circumstances like diabetes,” she stated.
H Jahir Hussain sells betel leaves (Photograph: Jayashree Narayanan)
Meet the cultivators and sellers
H Jahir Hussain, 43, a betel leaf vendor in Kumbakonam’s outdated vegetable market in Swaminatha Nagar, instructed indianexpress.com, “I’ve been on this career for 30 years. My father taught me and I taught my son. I consider betel is nature’s highly effective antidote to many well being points. I promote 100 leaves for Rs 80 to Rs 180. Each district has its personal distinctive leaf. Ours is understood throughout states, and even exported,” he stated. Hussain’s brother-in-law, too, runs a betel hovel adjoining to his.
Suresh, 39, a cultivator in Papanasam, has been within the enterprise for 3 many years. He hires labourers to pluck mature leaves from the stem’s aspect shoots as soon as the vines attain a sure top. “There aren’t any days off. My day begins at 4 AM and I work until 11 PM, in search of expert pluckers,” he stated.
Mohamed Ariff, 41, from Rajagiri, has cultivated betel vines for 5 years. “My father did this for 50 years. We plant in March-Could and August-October, utilizing banana suckers for shade. However out of 100 days, barely 10 days are worthwhile. Remainder of the times, we face losses resulting from rain, soil, or lack of labour,” he stated, including that this results in fluctuations in market costs. In line with him, the labour and capital-intensive nature of the crop limits most farmers to beneath one acre of cultivation.
Harvest course of
After 20–25 days of planting, kolundhu vetrilai – the primary leaves – emerge. The primary-year harvest occurs from the seventh to twelfth month. It’s known as maaruvethalai, produces bigger leaves with a greater shelf lifetime of six to seven days, and fetches increased costs available in the market. Second and third-year yields – kelavethalai and kattavethalai – are smaller in comparison with the primary 12 months’s yield.
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Hussain’s brother-in-law additionally units up his stall adjoining to his (Photograph: Jayashree Narayanan)
Farmers unaware of GI tag recognition
When indianexpress.com requested cultivators concerning the GI tag, none have been conscious. Sanjai Gandhi, an mental property lawyer who filed for the GI standing, acknowledged the hole. “There’s an pressing must create consciousness and incentivise farmers. I’m doing it by way of lectures and outreach,” he stated.
Gandhi’s utility acknowledged that betel leaf is grown on over 200 acres throughout Thanjavur and components of Thiruvarur. “Kumbakonam is understood for temples and its high quality betel leaves. They’re integral to rituals and meals,” stated Gandhi, a Thanjavur native. That is additionally Thanjavur’s first agricultural GI tag.
In line with Gandhi, the tag helps curb misuse, protect heritage, and enhance exports. A June 2024 ResearchGate paper on GI tags, Gandhi stated, states that GI standing prevents unauthorised use and ensures solely real, high-quality merchandise attain customers.
Nevertheless, Gandhi famous, “GI isn’t but used as a advertising and marketing benefit. It’s a basis being laid. Consciousness will develop with time, particularly by way of faculties and schools.”