My reminiscences of most cities, cities and international locations I’ve visited are inextricably linked to the meals I’ve savoured there – the pillowy flatbread/bazlama in Istanbul, very similar to naan however higher; the grilled meats and massive fats oysters in Johannesburg; the golden coconuts of Sri Lanka. However hardly ever have I come throughout a metropolis that allowed me to eat as effectively, and as affordably, as Bombay did, and as Mumbai nonetheless does.
I moved to Bombay simply as I turned 22 for my post-graduation. I had no concept I used to be stepping right into a meals paradise for these residing on a shoestring finances. This was at a time we may solely afford a plate of hen – although we had been by no means fairly positive it was hen – hakka noodles for Rs 40 from the MAFCO stall subsequent to school on Warden Street.
If you would like a real style of Mumbai’s eclectic meals scene with out burning a gap in your pockets, right here’s what I like to recommend — together with a number of misses alongside the way in which.
Mumbai is actually avenue meals heaven. The town’s huge native practice community has spawned numerous fast-food stalls and vans catering to individuals perpetually on the transfer. Whereas I’m a die-hard fan of phuchka and jhal muri in Calcutta, I strongly advocate attempting bhel puri right here — puffed rice combined with chopped onions, coriander, nuts, crushed papdi, bhujia, all of which is combined by means of with a spicy inexperienced chutney and a candy imli (tamarind) one. It’s a meal in a paper cone, obtainable all over the place from seashores to stations and out of doors schools, layered with textures which might make even Ottolenghi proud.
For one thing extra substantial, head to one of many many Irani cafés scattered throughout town. With their checkered glass-topped tablecloths, followers whirring above your head and aged, doddering waiters, these locations supply a temper. I used to like the keema pao – spicy, bhunoed mutton mince cooked with onions and tomatoes, scooped up with buttered Mumbai pao, and washed down with a calming soda.
Talking of pao, I bear in mind being locked out of my cousin’s dwelling in Prabhadevi in my first month within the metropolis. She mentioned she would take an hour to return. Whereas I waited for her, I made a meal of the freshly made scorching, spicy pau bhaji from a stall under her constructing. The buns had been minimize in half, slathered with butter, and heated on an enormous tawa. The bhaji – mashed greens combined with spices – had been cooking on one other a part of the tawa. This was slapped onto a metal plate, with a squeeze of lime adopted by a dollop of butter smacked onto the bhaji which melted right into a pool of excessive style and energy to your consumption. I had discovered pure consolation meals for the soul.
When you love seafood, Mumbai is the place for you. (Photograph: Freepik)
Bombay was additionally the primary place I noticed dosas being made on open carts. Proper exterior Sophia School stood a vendor. I had by no means seen dosa made on this method; the dosas you bought in Calcutta had been made in small, clear South Indian institutions. The Mysore masala dosa, flavoured with half a slab of butter, gave us sufficient power to journey to Bhayander and again after a full day of school, and nonetheless not be drained.
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My best culinary discovery in Bombay, one thing I nonetheless return for, is Maharastrian and Malwani seafood. As a Bengali, I believed nobody may cook dinner fish as effectively and in as a lot selection as us. However the Maharashtrians proved me improper. The range and affordability of seafood in spotless eating places reminiscent of Freeway Gomantak, Sahiba, Sindhudurg, and the extra upscale Gajalee had been revelations. One favorite was Soul Fry in Bandra for its fiery seafood, adopted by a stroll to Gondola for a cooling caramel custard. Malwani curries had tangy coconut bases — by no means overpowering, simply thick sufficient — and the delicacies featured fish roe, shark, rawas, surmai, pomfret, bangda, crabs, and teesriya/clams masala. When you love seafood, Mumbai is the place for you. The oddity for me as a Bengali was that fish was eaten with roti and never with rice, however I caught to what I knew.
There have been native cult favourites, too. Crystal at Chowpatty, the place the promoting crowd frolicked, although I used to be disenchanted to be served rajma chawal and gobhi ki sabzi. Naturals for its luscious fruit-topped ice lotions. Café Noorani, with its distinctive tackle Mughlai meals – the hen tikka biryani, a scrumptious mash-up of tandoori tikka and pulao. Colaba’s Café Leopold and Mondegar, the place beer flowed freely, and you can gorge on steak, chips and chilli beef. And Café Churchill, which is quieter, however with beneficiant burgers and sizzlers, remains to be a crowd-pleaser.
I nonetheless return to Leopold and Mondegar. I make a ritual cease at Gajalee every time I return to what’s now Mumbai. And I’m at all times relieved to seek out that my reminiscences of scrumptious meals from easier instances weren’t simply sentimentality. The meals actually is that good.
For me, the style of Bombay is somewhat scorching, somewhat messy, however full of heat, spice and unforgettable flavour.
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